'Hola Mohalla' at Anandpur Sahib

Mainstream media often portrays Nihang (traditional Sikh warrior) Sikhs as fierce, rigid, or intimidating figures. But walking among them in Anandpur Sahib during Hola Mohalla (Sikh mock-battles festival), spending a night with many of them, the writer of this travelog was touched by their simplicity, love and 'devotion to the Sikh cause of oneness'. He says, 'There was a sense of loving openness in which devotion mattered more than appearance, love mattered more than religion, and any outsider would feel completely at home. No one asked who you were, where you were from, or why you were here. Here, you had just one identity—someone who had come to seek the blessings of the 10th Sikh Sovereign Guru Gobind Singh.' Just like the many colors of gulaal (brightly colored powder) blend into one another while playing Holi (Indian festival of colors), the many sects, identities, and outward differences within the society seemed to blur into a shared Khalsa spirit during Hola Mohalla. During the festival, Anandpur Sahib—city of bliss—was decked with colors. Saffron, yellow, and blue flags fluttered from rooftops and Gurdwaras, while colorful clouds of gulaal drifted through the air. At the center of it all stood the Takht Sri Kesgarh Sahib, one of the five thrones of Sikhi, where the Khalsa Panth (pure order, or the one belonging to the Sovereign) was inaugurated in 1699. Started in 1701 by Guru Gobind Singh, Hola Mohalla was envisioned as a wartime celebration. The celebrations unfolded through displays of the Sikh martial art Gatka, mock battle drills, sword-fighting, horse riding, tent-pegging, and other equestrian games. Free community kitchens were organized every few meters. Countless stalls in a special market offered everything from handcrafted swords and religious texts to toys, kitchenware, and lemonade to beat the heat. Muslim perfume traders were selling ittar (perfume) beside the Sikh shrine. Gurdwara Shahidi Bagh Sahib (martyrs’ garden) is where Sikhs who attained martyrdom during the multiple battles of Anandpur Sahib were cremated. This Gurdwara marked the formal start of the mock battles. Nihang Sikhs clad in blue martial attire led the procession on horses. Contrary to popular belief, many Nihang Sikhs today are well-educated, speak English as fluently as Panjabi, and lead modern lifestyles while keeping their heritage alive (earlier coverage).